Ashwagandha in cosmetics – how it affects skincare

Ashwagandha is primarily associated with oral preparations that are well known in traditional Ayurvedic herbal medicine. It is worth noting, however, that extracts from this plant are also sometimes used as ingredients in cosmetics. The interest in ashwagandha in this context stems from the presence of various chemical compounds, the properties of which are being analysed, amongst other things, in laboratory studies. At present, however, data on the topical application of ashwagandha extracts in humans are limited.

1. Characteristics of ashwagandha
2. Ashwagandha root
3. Ashwagandha in cosmetics
4. FAQ

Characteristics of ashwagandha

Ashwagandha, or Withania somnifera, belongs to the nightshade family, the same as tomatoes, peppers, potatoes and physalis. It is a perennial subshrub or small shrub that grows primarily in warm and dry climates. Its natural range is very wide, extending from southern Europe and Africa to South Asia, China and Myanmar.

Depending on conditions, the plant usually reaches a height of between several tens of centimetres and around 1.5 metres, though some specimens may be taller. The stems are branched, partially woody and covered with fine hairs, which may give them a greyish tinge. The leaves are simple, oval or ovate, and most often matt green. Ashwagandha’s flowers are small, inconspicuous, bell-shaped and yellowish-green.

After flowering, spherical, orange-red berries form, surrounded by an enlarged, thin calyx resembling a paper sheath. The appearance of the fruit resembles that of a ground cherry (Physalis), which stems from the kinship between the two plants. Beneath the ground lies a branched, light-brown root, which is the most commonly used part of the plant.

Ashwagandha root

The ashwagandha root has an intense, distinctive scent. For this reason, the Sanskrit name of this plant is derived from the words ashwa (‘horse’) and gandha (‘scent’). Once dried, the root is hard, fibrous and ranges in colour from cream to brown. Before extraction, it is usually ground into smaller pieces or a powder. The leaves or the whole plant can also be used to produce cosmetic ingredients; the composition of the extract depends on the raw material used, the solvent and the production method. Among the characteristic constituents of ashwagandha are, amongst others, withanolides, including withaferin A and withanolide A, though their content varies from extract to extract.

Basic facts about ashwagandha

Ashwagandha in cosmetics

In cosmetic formulations, ashwagandha usually appears as a ready-made aqueous, aqueous-glycerine, glycolic or alcoholic extract, or incorporated into a fatty carrier. In the EU cosmetics database, the ingredient ‘Withania Somnifera Extract’ is described as an extract of the whole plant; however, on the labels of products containing ashwagandha, one may also find a name indicating the use of a specific part of the plant, such as the root.

The mere presence of ashwagandha in the EU register does not allow us to determine how much extract is contained in all products available on the market, nor whether they have been standardised for specific compounds (e.g. withanolides). Consequently, products containing extracts from different parts of the plant should not be regarded as identical.

Withania somnifera extract may be added to creams, emulsions, lotions, serums, masks, toners, cleansers and cosmetics intended for scalp care. It is not usually the main ingredient in a formulation, but rather one of many components used alongside moisturisers, fragrances, emollients, oils, cosmetic antioxidants, thickeners and preservatives.

Ashwagandha can therefore contribute to skin care as an ingredient in cosmetics, although the properties of the finished product are determined by the type and concentration of the extract, as well as the formulation as a whole. The properties of a given cosmetic are determined by its full composition, the concentrations of individual substances, its pH, the type of base, and the method used to protect the product against oxidation and microbial growth.

“Ashwagandha is increasingly found in the ingredients lists of cosmetics, but one should not attribute exceptional properties to it solely on the basis of its presence in a formula. The effectiveness of a product is determined primarily by the overall composition of the cosmetic, the concentration of the extract and the quality of the formulation used.” Anna Zięba – Dietitian

FAQ

Is ashwagandha commonly used in cosmetics?

Yes. Ashwagandha extracts can be found, amongst other things, in creams, serums, lotions, masks, toners and scalp care products.

What active ingredients does ashwagandha contain?

The most characteristic compounds are withanolides, including withaferin A and withanolide A, as well as alkaloids. Their content depends on the part of the plant and the method of extract preparation.

Does ashwagandha have anti-ageing effects?

Laboratory studies and a few clinical trials suggest that ashwagandha extracts may improve skin condition and reduce certain signs of photoageing. However, the number of human studies is currently limited, so further research is needed.

Do cosmetics containing ashwagandha moisturise the skin?

They can support skincare, but the moisturising effect depends mainly on the product’s overall formulation, including the presence of humectants, emollients and other active ingredients.

Are all cosmetics containing ashwagandha the same?

No. Products may contain extracts from different parts of the plant (e.g. the root or leaves), obtained using different methods and with varying concentrations of bioactive substances. Therefore, one should not assume that every cosmetic containing ashwagandha will have the same properties.

Sources:

• Narra, K., Naik, S. K., & Ghatge, A. S. (2023). A Study of Efficacy and Safety of Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Lotion on Facial Skin in Photoaged Healthy Adults. Cureus, 15(3), e36168. https://doi.org/10.7759/cureus.36168
• Sikandan, A., Shinomiya, T., & Nagahara, Y. (2018). Ashwagandha root extract exerts anti‑inflammatory effects in HaCaT cells by inhibiting the MAPK/NF‑κB pathways and by regulating cytokines. International journal of molecular medicine, 42(1), 425–434. https://doi.org/10.3892/ijmm.2018.3608
• Gaurav, H., Yadav, D., Maurya, A., Yadav, H., Yadav, R., Shukla, A. C., Sharma, M., Gupta, V. K., & Palazon, J. (2023). Biodiversity, Biochemical Profiling, and Pharmaco-Commercial Applications of Withania somnifera: A Review. Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 28(3), 1208. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules28031208